To kick off my column, I thought I’d break down a satisfying three-course winter meal, dedicating one post to each course, so that you can practice each at your own pace and feel completely confident before choreographing them into one delicious dinner.
Our complete menu will begin with a poached bosc pear salad with an orange-red wine vinaigrette; then we will tuck into a hearty, Italian-inspired cheese rollatini smothered in bolognese sauce; and we will finish with a light and cheery lemon curd with chantilly cream. Hey, was that your stomach growling or mine?
Let’s begin with the poached pear salad. For four servings we will need:
- 2 Bosc pears
- 2 cups water
- 2 cups orange juice
- 1 cup red wine
- 1/2 cup sugar
- 1/2 cup crumbled gorgonzola
- 1/2 cup pignoli nuts
- 1/4 cup white wine vinegar
- 1 cup extra virgin olive oil
- 1 endive head
- 2 cups arugula
Bosc pears are the elongated, russet-colored pears that are available in markets through the winter. They are ideal for this dish because their firm flesh stands up nicely to the poaching method.
Now, if you have never poached before, don’t worry. You’ll be amazed how easy it is. Think of it as preparing a soothing hot tub for the pears -- they'll relax for a few hours in orange-scented water while sipping a little red wine.
Let's draw the bath: Pour the water, orange juice and wine into a medium saucepan. Place over high heat and bring to a boil, then lower heat to bring the liquid to a simmer. Meanwhile peel the skin from the pears – that’s right, they’re going skinny-dipping – but leave the fruit whole and stems still intact (for presentation sake). When the liquid is simmering, add the sugar and mix until you feel it has dissolved. The bath should be ready now – appearing a rich pink grapefruit color – and you can add the pears. Keep it barely at a simmer over medium low heat for about an hour and a half. Don’t worry about the pears. They’ll enjoy the privacy.
Meanwhile, put the pignoli into a dry saute pan and toast them over a medium flame, moving them around often so they don’t scorch and they brown evenly. When the nuts are a lovely golden color and smell divine – you’ll know it – remove them from the heat.
After about an hour and a half, remove the pears from the saucepan, reserving the liquid. Allow the pears to rest and cool in an open container or dish with a little of the poaching liquid to keep them moist. The pears should still be firm to the touch – remember, we’re serving them in a salad, not a dessert.
While the pears cool, make the vinaigrette. Get out the blender you haven’t used in seven years and make sure the pitcher is clean. Pour in a cup and a half of the poaching liquid along with the white wine vinegar. (Note: Be careful when blending hot liquids. The steam can blow the top off the blender, splatter the liquid, scald the skin, mass hysteria...) With the blender on, add the olive oil in a steady stream through the hole in the lid until all ingredients incorporate and the vinaigrette thickens a bit. Season the vinaigrette to taste.
Hey, guess what? We made it! Now all that’s left is assembly. Cut the pears into quarters, lengthwise. Create a bed of arugula and endive leaves on each salad plate. Sprinkle the leaves with gorgonzola (that’s Italian blue cheese, which is a milder variety, so don’t be afraid) and toasted pignoli. Then arrange two pear wedges so that they’re kind of leaning on each other, stems facing upwards. Spoon the vinaigrette over the salad and serve.
If you run into any problems, let me know by posting a comment below. Otherwise, I'll meet you back here next week. Buon appetito!
-- Chef J. Fortune
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